May 082013
 

When my great grandfather Benjamin Hall died in 1936 (a wealthy man with a huge wine cellar) his two dreary sisters came to the funeral from their home in Mid-Wales. The fact that they were coke-heads (i.e.cocaine addicts) did not stop them from being teetotal (in other words they had “taken the pledge” to abstain from alcohol. Never a drop of the demon drink did pass their lips, but then, from all reports they were generally stoned out of their minds anyway…).

The story goes that after the funeral they traipsed back to the family home and set to with a fervent zeal, destroying every single bottle of wine to be found in the cellars. The whole lot was opened and poured down the drain.

I tell the story to indicate that the family may be weird, but we are not all the same! But what I like about the 18th Century is that it was a century of excess, not of moderation. The Temperance Movement really didn’t get going until 1833 when the word ‘teetotal’ was coined, and then had a renewed lease of life in the 1880’s. But none of their killjoy activities impinged upon the century which saw Hogarth rail against Gin, (as in Gin Lane) but condone and promote the consumption of beer (as in Beer Street). The earliest cartoon I can find giving a temperance view of the world is this one from 1828. It is entitled “The two fishermen : a dedication to the temperance society” and is by A Ducôte. It appears on the Lewis Walpole Library site.

On the left, under the banner of Habitual Drunkenness, the fisherman is in a spot of bother: his kids are fighting, his front door is falling off its hinges, his wife is embracing another man, and he has caught a fish marked ‘Sickness’. He cries out “The Devil”. Other fish in the sea are identified as Starvation, Hatred, Murder, Malice, Discontent ,Seduction, Rebellion, Atheism, Beggary and Enormous Taxation.

Contrast this unhappy scene with the prosperous happy family on the right blessed with Constant Sobriety, catching fish for their dinner. The waters abound with such delights as Civil and Religious Liberty, Peace & Quietness, Chastity, Happiness, Health, Wealth, Moderate Taxation, Cheap Bread and Contentment.

Just in case we haven’t got the message, the man on the left fishes in Gin, and on the right the supercilious young man with two ghastly children fishes in Water. The moral to me is quite clear: if you want ghastly kids and cheap bread, try being abstemious; if you want a bit of fun before you die, take another slug from the bottle.

For my distant ancestor Richard Hall, being a devout Baptist never seemed to prevent him from enjoying a prodigious quantity of wine (his tipple of choice). But he also brewed beer, and cider, as well as bringing a quarter Pipe of Port down from London whenever supplies ran short.

Late 18thCentury wine bottles – courtesy of Christies.com

But where I find his stamina truly remarkable is where he lists his household expenses for 1797 (when he was 68 years old). His account books show that he was spending roughly three times the amount on wine as he did on taxation. Way to go, Richard!

 

May 072013
 

Bristol_Blue_Cover_for_KindleEarlier this year I was fortunate enough to stay at the lovely Arizona Inn at Tucson. The dining area, somewhat dark and cavernous, was transformed into a warm, glowing, welcoming room by one thing: the tables were all set with water glasses made of cobalt blue. Here in Britain it is generally known as ‘Bristol Blue’. It gave some idea of the effect that introducing blue glassware must have had when it came into vogue in the last couple of decades of the Eighteenth Century. From decanters to wine glasses, from display dishes to glass coolers and finger rinsing bowls, they must have glittered and amazed in the flickering candle-light.

bristol blue 005So I have written a book. Not a very long one, but packed with full-colour photographs to give an idea of the beautiful rich translucent blue.

It is a history of how and where the blue glass was made (not necessarily in Bristol, which just happened to be the port where smalt – cobalt oxide – was imported). And it is also the story of the men behind the spectacular boom in popularity of Bristol Blue.

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I wrote it because I could not find anything which told me about the origins of the glassware – or if it did it was as part of a large dictionary of glass, usually printed in black and white (which frankly is a bit pointless when it comes to picturing coloured glass!). Also, I found it fascinating visiting one of the glass factories which is still producing ‘Bristol Blue’ in Bedminster, Bristol, on almost the exact site where glass was being produced 250 years ago. There is precious little of Bristol’s industrial heritage still standing, so what there is is worth remembering.

BB3Anyway, a harmless hobby, and I brought the book out on Amazon where you can find it here if in the U.K. and in the States here. I am hoping that it will also be available on kindle, although at present they are not playing ball and I would be the first to admit that this is not my favourite platform for displaying pictures of the gorgeous blue glass. The images appear courtesy of the V&A Museum, and the Bristol Blue Glass South West Glass Museum.

 

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May 012013
 

When I wrote the Journal of a Georgian Gentleman I included facsimile copies of Richard Hall’s lists (he loved lists!). One of these included the items which he packed and loaded on the roof of the stage coach for a trip from Bourton, via Bath, to Weymouth – a journey which he calculated at 264 miles, return.wigbox (2)

The list is unremarkable and starts with his Great Trunk, his blue box, his Wainscot ( i.e. wood-panelled) box, his green bag, great coat and shoes – and ends with his wig box.

I have never really given any thought to the wig box, but recently came across one for sale at the ever-fascinating Hampton Antiques site.

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The period is absolutely spot-on (1780) and it would be rather nice to think that Richard would have something smart like this in which to keep his powdered wig to change into at the end of a long, dusty, journey!

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Hamptons describe it as being a  “Sheraton Oval Wig box veneered in Harewood. It has a Tulipwood cross-banding to its top and bottom edge. The box has been beautifully painted with floral sprays and foliate garlands of tied ribboned bows of flowers all round this wonderfully shaped box. It still has its original polished surface and fantastic patination.

The interior contains an unusual hollowed out surface with a green baize cloth to protect the Wig.”  It measures 33cm x 20.5cm x 16cm, but as it would set me back £1850 I won’t be adding it to the vast array of Richard Hall memorabilia I already have. There are enough problems already, trying to accommodate everything in the house! Shame… because I rather like it. Now, if only it had been fitted with a carrying handle…

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Apr 302013
 

Go to any clothes shop and ask to try anything on in the fitting room and you will be immediately made aware that the store has to regard you as a potential thief. Bitter experience will have taught the shop owner that people have a habit of leaving the shop wearing more items of clothing than they brought in…

Shop-lifting is not of course a new phenomenum and I am reminded of this by this splendid mezzotint dating from 1787, appearing on the Lewis Walpole Library site. It is entitled ‘Shop Lifter Detected’ and shows a fashionably dressed young lady discovered in the act of trying to leave with lengths of ribbon and lace stuffed up under her skirt. Another woman looks on in horror, while two passers-by are explaining what has happened to the constable.

I especially like the rather-too-eager young man with his hand on the lady’s knee, thoroughly enjoying the search for stolen goods….

Theft was not the only concern to an 18th Century businessman: forgeries were another. Imagine the fun and games when banknotes first became prevalent in the  final decade of the century, and printers decided to try their hand at a little forgery. This was before the days of elaborate copy-proof watermarks, or holograms or metal strips – and within a very short time shop-keepers were coming into contact with fake bank notes.

In 1799 my ancestor solemnly jotted down in one of his notebooks:

“Counterfeit Bank Notes, chiefly of £5.-   Known by the coarseness of the paper. The Watermark clumsily executed with the figures 35 in the corner which appears to be done with something that cuts a part of the 3 in two.”

Ah well, the shopkeeper’s lot has never been easy!

Apr 282013
 

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I love clocks – especially longcase clocks. They have such character, such solemnity and grandeur. And occasionally I come across a picture of one that is so exquisite I just want to share it with others. That’s the case with one on the delicious site of P.A. Oxley . But a word of warning: don’t go there unless you are happy to wander for ages through a positive cornucopia of delights!

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It is described as being “an impressive 18th Century Chinoiserie decorated Longcase Clock by Estwick” and is rare because it has a moon-phase feature to the arch. Clocks showing the phases of the moon were not often made in London, which is where the maker Thomas Estwick operated from in around 1747. I have been unable to find out much about the man, other than that he was probably born in 1701. There are records of various other Estwick clock sales on the web, and it appears that he even made a musical clock with no fewer than thirteen bells. The ones I have seen are all incredibly ornately decorated.

This beautiful clock has a “full brass dial with separate silvered brass chapter ring, engraved matted centre, blued steel hands, date aperture, the makers name engraved on an unusual basket shaped cartouche and enclosed by four brass spandrels.”

It has an eight day mechanism housed in a “hugely impressive Chinoiserie decorated case with a green/brown ground and featuring a total of seven horses throughout the main trunk and base. Also featuring birds, lions, trees, buildings, flowers and a horse drawn carriage to the base and standing on a solid double plinth.”

I won’t go into the technical details of the mechanism – I just think it is a real “WOW!” item and I will let the pictures do the talking. They are all courtesy of P.A. Oxley, and I am most grateful to Chris for allowing me to use them. Just think of the impact a clock like this would have in a Georgian home. I can see myself walking across the hall and hearing its steady rhythmic movement, or waiting for the hour to be marked with its delicate chime. Definitely one for the bucket list!

P.S.  A word of caution – this baby has a height of 8’9″ so you will need nice high ceilings! It brings to mind The Aged Mother, who died last year, and who had cut a hole in the ceiling to accommodate the finials on her longcase. The clock still wouldn’t fit so she cut a hole through the floorboards and lowered the case twelve inches  into the void! Visitors were greeted with the weird sight of two thirds of a clock, the rest being out of view…. the problem was that her next house had concrete floors and ceilings. That got her!e5

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Apr 262013
 

I am delighted to have a guest blog today from the irrepressible Elizabeth Hopkinson, author of  a just-released novel Silver Hands which contains lots of detailed background information about trade with the Far East in the 17th and 18th Centuries. She has kindly agreed to  do this post on the activities of the East India Company:

Chinese wallpaper, courtsey of the V&A

High-class people in the 18th century were obsessed with East Asia. Go to any stately home of the period and you will find any amount of Chinese wallpaper and lacquered cabinets. European well-to-do’s sought to imitate their oriental cousins. They rode in sedan chairs (a sort of European version of the palanquin). They communicated with fans. Even the oh-so-English custom of taking tea, which derives from the period, is a poor imitation of the Chinese tea ceremony.Why the fascination? Because European fleets were making the journey to and from the Far East in order to furnish people with luxuries, and bringing back tales of exotic lands with them.

The big trading powers in the water at the time were the East India Companies: the English and the Dutch (known as the VOC, or Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie). The two countries had already fought each other over the right to control the spice trade in the 17th century, and England had lost. The Netherlands controlled the main part of the spice trade from their base in Batavia (Jakarta). They were also the only Europeans allowed to trade directly with Japan after the Sakoku (closed country) Edict of 1635. They were restricted to the man-made island of Deshima, in Nagasaki harbour, and all other European traders had to go through them. (That’s why if you see any genuine Japanese lacquer-ware from before 1868 – as opposed to the inferior Chinese sort – in an English stately home, you can be sure it was very, very expensive!) England, however, had its company factories in India (where it exerted ever-increasing power), China, and a changing array of places in between.

To get there, the journey began in London. East India Dock didn’t open until 1806, so the ships loaded and unloaded in the City of London (between Tower Bridge and London Bridge). East India Company ships were big: between 500 and 1,400 tonnes, with a crew of 90, and with 30-48 guns. They looked like warships and were run like warships, with uniforms and strict discipline; and they travelled in fleets to protect each other. This was because there was a huge threat of piracy. Ships carried gold and silver bullion, along with all manner of expensive goods and a well-stocked medicine chest – a tempting target to any pirate. Still, they did take passengers, including brides being sent to ex-patriots in India, who must have been in for a pretty terrible journey. One army wife slept in a hammock above a cannon and bilge water, and humbler women could be berthed with the horses! The more well-to-do passenger could bring a variety of things with which to make themselves more comfortable: tables, chairs, writing desks, sofas, coffee-making equipment, soap, sweets, perfume, soda water and musical instruments. However, this wouldn’t help them much in the worst of conditions, and the most common causes of death among passengers were illness, suicide and falling overboard.

The prevailing winds bellied out away from the West Coast of Africa, coming into the haven of the Cape of Good Hope after about 6 months. (Since both the Dutch and English stopped to replenish there, this explains the origins of modern South Africa). They would then have to avoid being attacked by pirates from the island of Madagascar, and get to the Company factory in Madras. A typical “Madras landing” was a far from pleasant experience, involving pitching through turbulent waves in small boats. Once ashore, the white walls of the city awaited, along with Fort St George, St Mary’s church (est. 1680), and presumably the new (and Englishwoman-starved) husbands of any bride who had made it through the journey so far.

 

From there, the journey continued through the Straits of Malacca, where more pirates were waiting in the South China Sea. And if the ship made it through that, it would eventually reach China. The main company factory in China was originally Canton (est. 1699), followed later by Shanghai. (The nature of Canton as a trading port helps to explain why Cantonese is spoken so widely by Chinese people outside China, and why Shanghaiese and Cantonese are the biggest dialects after Mandarin in China itself). Canton in the 18th century had factories (trading stations) from Holland, England, Sweden, France, Denmark and the Holy Roman Empire. These stood in a row on the waterfront, each flying its own flag. (The English one apparently had gardens too, which were the envy of the others). Along the back of the factories ran “Hog Lane”: a haunt of thieves, prostitutes, and a drink made from alcohol, tobacco juice, sugar and arsenic! Factories housed around 12 officers, along with 8 clerks, 2 tea inspectors, 2 surgeons and a chaplain. They only opened during the season that the winds allowed the ships to visit: the rest of the year, the men went to live in Macao.

Canton

China wasn’t much more keen than Japan on allowing other nations within its borders, so all internal trade was handled by the Chinese, with external trade only taking place in the trading stations, and only with the licenced guild of Co-Hong merchants. The main commodity England wanted from China was tea, along with porcelain, ginger, lacquer-ware, ivory carving, wallpaper and raw silk. In return, the English could offer wool from home and cotton from India. (There was also a time from 1720-50 when silver was worth more than gold in China, so traders did a direct swap of bullion!) If there was room in the hold, a captain of the East India Company was allowed to conduct his own private trade as well as the Company’s, and so come home a richer man.

Finally, with the hold full of tea and other goodies, all the captain and crew had to think about was reversing the entire journey and getting back to London. How truly Gulliver said to the Houynhmns, “that this whole Globe of Earth must be at least three Times gone round, before one of our better Female Yahoos could get her Breakfast, or a Cup to put it in.”

 

 

Main sources: The East India Company: Trade and Conquest from 1600 by Antony Wild (1999) and 1688: A Global History by John E Wills (2001)

 

I am most grateful to Elizabeth for her post: she is on Twitter as @hidden_grove and her new book is available on Amazon and Kindle. Silver Hands is a novel set in 1706-7, and reflects a huge amount of research into the English and Dutch East India Companies, international trade routes, and life at sea (including sea surgery). It also contains fascinating details about Japan’s secret feudal society  in that period. You can find details at Top Hat Books and her website is here.

Apr 192013
 

Three delightful trade cards from the Wellcome Institute to remind us of trades which we might otherwise have forgotten about. First up, this beautiful card promoting the wares of  William Woodward and his not-quite-so-beautiful business of emptying privies, drains and cess pools. Not content with carting barrels full of effluent through your house at night he could also sweep your chimneys and cart away your rubbish. A useful sort of contact to have….

Secondly, a lovely one about ‘buggs’ by the splendidly named Benjamin Tiffin “Bug Destroyer to His Majesty”

Handy knowing how to destroy’ buggs in  the walls’ with some neatly patterned wall-paper! And really, he comes across as a ‘Mr Rentokil’ of the 1750′s -  so much to fumigate each type of bed, and then a yearly contract to keep the bedroom bug-free. I would happily have paid the man a guinea to dis-infest my ‘raised  tester’ if I knew that the person carrying out the service had previously done the same in the Royal Bed-chamber!

Finally, if you are looking for lodging, bathing, sweating or cupping at the local hammams (hot baths), Gentlemen would be pleased to see that they could avail themselves of the service from this fine Cupper by the name of John Rigg. Being able to go in by the back door from Charles Street might have been a good idea – public baths, whether described as  a hammam or a bagnio, were often a pseudonym for a brothel. Ladies were admitted but only for sweating, bathing and cupping  “with great care and attendance”. Ominously, there is likewise a good cold bath – presumably to put paid to anyone wanting to behave other than with ‘the utmost Decorum’                                            

My ancestor Richard Hall records visiting  a colleague of Mr Rigg, in 1768. The experience cost him three shillings and sixpence….

But as we are on the topic of cupping, to end with a delightful cartoon from Rowlandson called ‘The Doctor is so Severely Bruised that Cupping is Judged Necessary.’  It shows the poor doctor lying starkers on the bed and suffering the indignity of hot cups being placed on his buttocks and shoulders. A number of female servants look on with differing degrees of interest. There never was, nor is, any dignity in being poorly…

Thomas_Rowlandson_-_'The_Doctor_is_so_Severely_Bruised_that_Cupping_is_Judged_Necessary'

Mar 082013
 

Growing up in the Fifties I remember getting my first pair of roller skates when I was seven. They were “traditional” skates, each  with four metal wheels, and the contraption strapped on over your shoe.

Years later a craze for in-lining developed and I assumed that this was a new invention, so I was amazed to discover that in-lining was started nearly two centuries ago.

Here is a splendid engraving showing three elegantly attired gentleman speeding around on their ‘volitos’ (sometimes they are called ‘rolitos’). Their speed enables them to evade the attempt by the Fuzz to hand one of them a warrant. The first man (on the left) shouts back “You’ll have to double your speed or you’ll never catch me!”  Another says “You had better get a pair of Volitos. They would be a great advantage in your profession.” The officer orders them to stop - ”You are wanted” while his assistant shouts “Tis no use Master. The fellow has wings on his heels”

The central caption underneath reads:

“THE VOLITO, or Summer and Winter Skait. For Amusement in cold weather without Ice and is equally useful on stones, boards, roads etc. NB the three different wheels fit into the same skait.”

The date is 1823 and the print is shown courtesy of the Lewis Walpole Library. The idea of putting wheels of different sizes under the wooden platform on which the  skaters stood enabled the user to execute turns much more easily, simply by shifting the weight onto either the front or back wheels. The central wheel was larger than its neighbours, with the front and rear wheels smaller still.The spare pairs of skates on the left (foreground) shows how they were strapped on. A metal bar front and back gave an element of control for braking.

Adapting skates for summer use was common in Holland in the early 1700′s. Early “skeelers” as they were called, consisted of wooden spools nailed on to the underside of a piece of wood, onto which the normal shoes were strapped. In 1743 an (anonymous) actor apparently glided onto the London stage wearing a pair of skeelers to great admiration and effect. A later development is attributed to the Belgian inventor John Joseph Merlin who developed a skate with iron wheels (but unfortunately for him, without a brake mechanism. See Horrible Histories.)

The first patent seems to have been taken out in 1819 by a Frenchman. Monsieur Petitbled  invented a brand-new roller skate design using three wheels, made of either wood or iron, or indeed ivory. These didn’t catch on (the wheels kept slipping on any hard surface) and it wasn’t until 1823 that an Englishman called John Tyers came up with the five-wheeled “Volito”. The rest, as they say, is History.

There really isn’t all that much difference in the modern in-liners (a bit more stylish, I give you!).

Mar 012013
 

In 1708 an Italian living in Cologne sat at his kitchen table mixing up a few drops of citrus oil – from lemons, tangerines, grapefruit and oranges. He added bergamot and a few chopped orange tree leaves, then some lavender and rosemary, added a tincture of jasmine and a dash of diluted ethanol, and hey presto, he had arrived at a miracle water! The only trouble was, he didn’t know what to do with it – take it as a medicine, or splash it all over, as the saying goes. So he wrote to his brother extolling the wonders of the concoction saying : “I have found a fragrance that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain”. He named his fragrance Eau de Cologne, (or ‘Kolnisch Wasser’ in German) in honour of the town where he was living.

The inventor was Giovanni Maria Farina and his product became a sensation throughout Europe, and almost certainly would have been known to Richard Hall. And let’s face it, with his aversion to washing, any attempt to mask natural odours was to be encouraged!

Farina set to and sold the expensive phials of perfume from his Cologne premises. He died in 1766 and in 1806 his grand-grand-nephew Jean Marie Joseph Farina opened a perfumery business in Paris. This is now owned by Roger & Gallet and that company owns the right to call its product Eau de Cologne extra vieille.

Meanwhile there had appeared a number of imitators on the scene – perfumiers claiming that they too were selling the ‘original’ eau de Cologne. Numerous court cases followed and at least two separate products emerged – one belonging to the Parisian branch of the Farina family and the other to a Wilhelm Mülhens who claimed to have bought the name from another member of the Farina family (actually not even related, but that’s another story). He started selling eau de Cologne in 1803. Finally the courts ordered the Mülhens family to stop passing their product off as having anything to do with the name ‘Farina’ and they therefore hit upon the idea of naming it after their original house number – “4711″ (Glockengasse).

The original watchglass bottle

 

Mülhen had claimed that the secret formula for his ‘aqua mirabilis’ had been given to him in 1792 by a mysterious Carthusan monk as a wedding present, but when it was re-launched as “4711″ the idea of it being used as a perfume, particularly for gentlemen, rather than as a medicine, really took off.

 

The business was later acquired by the Proctor & Gamble but six years ago they sold it on, together with the original Glockengasse building, to the perfume company Mäurer & Wirtz of Aachen. They are entitled to use the description ‘original eau de Cologne’. The Glockengasse is a veritable shrine to the product with a gold fountain spurting forth the famous product in the foyer.

For me, the distinctively coloured label is a link to a fragrant past – of great Grannies and indeed even further back to the times in which my great-great-great-great grandfather lived.

 

The 4711 building in Glockengasse

(The post first appeared on my posterous site 18 months ago but with so many new Followers I thought it was worthy of another outing.)

Feb 272013
 

The Governess, by Chardin, 1739. (National Gallery of Canada)

 

 

My ancestor Richard Hall sent the 3 children by his first marriage away to boarding schools in London. The middle child, called Martha, appears to have been schooled at a private residence in Ponders End (now in the North London Borough of Enfield) under the auspices of a Governess (unnamed) and a Miss Lambe. I recently came across this charming letter dated 10th September 1776 – suggesting that term time extended through the whole summer. She writes in an amazingly formal way to her mother to ask what arrangements are to be made for her to return home (to One London Bridge where the family resided).

 

The text reads as follows:

“Honoured Madam

In answer to my Papa’s kind letter I beg leave to acquaint you that as the time draws nigh for my leaving school, (I ) should be glad of a line to inform me in what manner I am to come to Town whether in the Coach or I am to be fetched and whether I am to bring my drawers with me or to have them sent after.

My Governess and Miss Lambe present their compliments. I am pure well. ( I ) beg my Duty and love may be acceptable where due from, Dear Mamma

Your most dutiful Daughter, M Hall”

Unfortunately I have not got the response, so have  no way of knowing whether she left her drawers behind…

At the time Martha would have been 19 and so this appears to have been more of a ‘Finishing School’  where she would have been expected to acquire all of the  necessary social graces. Clearly she  could read and write fluently, and knew  how to do embroidery (the family still have some of her samplers): she would have been taught deportment and how to dance, along with other appropriate lessons for a young lady. She wrote a letter to one of her brothers, in fluent French, urging him to reply in the same language, and in it she speaks of her sadness at hearing that her mother was unwell.

She returned to assist her mother in running the household while her two brothers were apprenticed as hosiers to their father Richard. She later married ‘Mr Griffiths of Bath’ – a man to whom Richard lent £350 by way of a Marriage Bond, and went on to have eight children.

To end with, a Rowlandson water colour on the topic of female education: painted in 1803 “A Young Ladies’ Finishing School”, with a sign ‘Young ladies, boarded and educated’. A man climbs a ladder to reach the ladies who lean out of the windows.  It is shown courtesy of the Museum of London.